Spring Delights

We've always had ham for Easter. This is not necessarily a favorite with the women in the family so once in a blue moon I sneak in a leg of lamb, which I've always considered the only acceptable alternative to ham on Easter Sunday. But the guys always want ham. And in the same breath they ask: are you making the mustard ring? Which, as near as I can figure, is a necessity or don't bother having ham. It's tricky to get anyone outside the family to try this recipe. I even posted it when I first started blogging but sincerely doubt anyone made it. You probably thought I was nuts.

Back in the 60's this mustard ring won best of show in a big, albeit local, cooking competition. My friend Grace was the winner and she told me it was an old family recipe. Only I never got the chance to taste it that day and when all the recipes were finally published in a cookbook, I just stared at it dubiously, wondering how on earth it ever won over all the fierce competition. So this mustard ring had to be beyond great, right? It even beat out some scrumptious desserts! Well, well. Best in Show. Good for you, Grace!

But it still took me a couple years before I finally made it. It's not rocket science but it does take a little time. The color is such a delicate yellow, making it very Easter-like. I spoon-tasted it as it was cooling and it was sweet with a tangy bite; pretty tasty actually. Then you fold in some cold whipped cream and the color turns an even softer yellow and while the bite is still there, it's not as sweet. And served with ham? Spectacular. Unusual. The first question invariably is: what is this?? Some kind of lemon dessert?  Definitely not. In the end, everyone is asking if it will keep in the fridge for leftovers. And they've been asking for it ever since.

You don't need to make it in a ring mold (although it puts to good use the old molds we used to make those ghastly jello salads in) but I do because it's fun to fill the center with something. If I have it at Christmas, I use holly. Other times I've used black olives, crabapples, flowers, fruit...just about anything. But my favorite is a Rhubarb (quelle surprise) Ginger Compote. I love the colors together. And spring is always when I first get my hands on some rhubarb.

Here's a prediction: you're going to read this post, comment politely that it looks good and then not try it. I know, because that's what I did. But just this once, when ham is next on your menu, please remember Grace's prize-winning Mustard Ring.  You have to make it a day ahead anyway (I've made it as much as 3 days ahead) so you're not adding one more thing to think about for dinner that day.

And because I'm mad for the Rhubarb-Ginger Compote, I'm posting that recipe too. Don't wait for the mustard ring to make the compote, because it's a killer recipe. I keep sneaking spoonfuls!

Grace's Mustard Ring

Ingredients:
4 eggs
3/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons dry mustard ( I use Colman's)
1 envelope gelatin
1/3 cup water
2/3 cup vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup whipping cream

Method:
Whisk the sugar and dry mustard together in the top of a double boiler to make certain there are no lumps. Add the vinegar and water and then the well beaten eggs.

Soak the gelatin in 1 T. cold water then melt over hot water.
Cook the egg/mustard mixture slowly in double boiler stirring constantly, adding gelatin when it becomes hot. Cook until creamy and thickened. Remove from heat, cool over ice cubes.

When cool, beat the whipping cream until peaks form. Slowly fold in the cooled mustard mixture. Pour into a mold and chill.

Rhubarb-Ginger Compote
From an article entitled Rhubarb Bites by Molly O'Neill, New York Times Magazine,  May 15th, 1994

Ingredients:
2 teaspoons olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons grated ginger
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
4 cups rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons rice-wine vinegar
1/8 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste

Method:
Heat the olive oil in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the ginger and cook, stirring, for 45 seconds. Add the water and sugar and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat so that the liquid barely simmers. Add the rhubarb and cook without simmering until the rhubarb is tender but still whole, about 12 minutes.

Remove rhubarb from the liquid with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl. Bring liquid to a boil. Cook, adding juices that accumulate from the rhubarb, until reduced to 1 cup, about 30 minutes. Set aside to cool. Stir in vinegar, salt and pepper. Stir in the rhubarb. Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator.
Makes 2-1/2 cups

Sweet Lavender

Did you know lavender is an herb? I thought it was a flower.  Well, it has a flower. The Greeks and the Romans bathed in lavender scented water....the name "lavender" is Latin from the word "lavare", and means to wash. They also used the dried flowers to scent and flavor jellies as well as other sweets. Queen Elizabeth I of England valued lavender as a conserve and a perfume. To this day, the French continue to send baby lambs to graze in fields of lavender, so their meat will be tender and fragrant.

This herb has also been used as a remedy for a range of ailments from insomnia and anxiety to depression and fatigue. Research has confirmed that lavender produces slight calming, soothing, and sedative effects when its scent is inhaled. Which is probably why lavender is such a popular fragrance in soaps, perfumes and potpourri mixtures.

Lately I've noticed more and more recipes are using lavender as an ingredient. I was also surprised to find it listed as an ingredient in Herbes de Provence. Everyone seems to have a different idea about lavender's flavor. It has been variously described as sweet, floral or lemony. I personally found it to be slightly floral and kind of woodsy. If you're going to give lavender a try in the kitchen, be sure (Unless you're fortunate enough to have it growing in your garden!) to buy culinary lavender.

And how would you use it, you ask? Here are some ideas:

• Use lavender as a substitute for thyme or marjoram.
• Lavender can also be substituted for rosemary in many bread recipes.
• The flowers can be put in sugar and sealed tightly for a couple of weeks then the sugar can be substituted for ordinary sugar for a cake, buns or custards.

A word of caution for first time users: Lavender is strong and can "overdose" a recipe unless used sparingly. Begin to experiment with lavender as a background flavor...like vanilla. You know it's there, but it's not the main player. You can use lavender flowers, buds, and leaves, sprigs, either fresh, dried or ground.

Did I forget to mention using lavender in drinks?

How about lavender lemonade?
Or place sprigs of lavender into a gin bottle and put the bottle in the freezer for summer drinks. The combination of gin and lavender make an absolutely fabulous gin and tonic!
Or try a sprig of lavender in a martini with a twist of lemon.

Recently Susan of Savoring Time in the Kitchen posted a recipe for Lavender-Lemon Pound Cake. Sounds delicious. I haven't made it yet, but I'm going to.

I've never experimented with lavender so I thought I'd begin with this caramel sauce. I adore anything caramel and the best caramels I have ever eaten had fleur de sel sprinkled on top. Sounded like a great way for me to start; besides, how could this sauce be anything other than fabulous? And it is. Fabulous. Rich, delightful and I can think of lots of things to pour it over, but vanilla ice cream is my favorite. It makes a super hostess gift or keep it in your fridge, reheat and use when you need that perfect finishing touch to your dessert. Like over a piece of angel food cake or even bread pudding.....drool.

Do you have any recipes using lavender as an ingredient?

Lavender Fleur de Sel Caramel Sauce
Martha Stewart Living Magazine, February 2010

Ingredients:
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup light corn syrup
3/4 cup heavy cream
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon dried lavender
1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel

Method:
Heat the sugar and corn syrup in a heavy saucepan over medium to high heat, stirring occasionally until the sugar dissolves, 3 to 4 minutes. Bring to a boil and cook, washing down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush to prevent crystals from forming, until it is mediuim amber, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add the heavy cream. Return to heat and cook, stirring until well combined. Remove from heat and stir in the butter, lavender and salt. Stir until combined and set aside for 15 minutes. Strain. Makes about 1-1/4 cups. Will keep in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Here are some good links on cooking with lavender:

http://www.happyvalleylavender.com/lavender_recipes.html
http://whatscookingamerica.net/Lavender.htm
http://www.lavenderlovers.com/recipes/recipes.html
http://www.joys-of-lavender.com/lavender-recipes.html
http://lavenderfarms.net/hoodriverlavender/HoodRiverLavenderRecipes.htm

Autumn = Applesauce

Once upon a time in Michigan, we had a backyard full of apple trees. I have no idea what variety but they were small, tart and delicious and everyone looked forward to fall so we could make applesauce. My mother made it often when I was a child- this is her recipe. It was hard to come by because she never wrote it down- I had to watch her make it. It's a classic, basic, simple, do it with a hand tied behind your back sort of recipe. And because
apples are available all year round, you can make it any time of the year. But still, I always associate applesauce with autumn. And not an October has gone by, apple trees or no, that I have skipped making it.

Can anything compare with autumn in Michigan? It's the one season I really miss since I moved to Florida and I try very hard to arrange visits to Michigan family and friends in October. The smell of pine trees, beautiful red and gold leaves making the trees vivid and bright in the sunlight, pumpkins growing in fields, cider and donuts, chilly mornings, U of M football games (Go Blue!), tailgate parties, falling leaves swirling in the wind, my kids jumping in enormous piles of raked leaves. A new season. A new start. A new school year. Yup, I sure do remember that school part. ;)

My kids, in the Michigan days.

The kids always asked for applesauce- the fragrance of apples and spices cooking on the stove made everyone think of upcoming holidays. And I can still create that ambiance, even though I live in the south. Maybe we don't have apple trees, but we DO have apples.

Only those of you living in the south understand we have seasons too- they don't scream out quite like yours, but seasons just the same. Huh? Fall in Florida you ask? Well yes. It's more a state of mind than anything else but there are a few things we notice. The winds shift, the light changes as the days shorten- our temperatures stay in the 80's rather than the humid 90's. Last week I noticed our grocery store decked out its entrance with pumpkins and fake spider webs.

(Pumpkins and palms, side by side.)

We get into fall just like the rest of you with fall wreaths on our doors, scarecrows and corn cobs on our porches and pumpkins on our doorsteps. I know, it's only a mind set. But thank you September for finally arriving. And move on in, October! That's what I say. Bring on the fall....

Applesauce

         

Ingredients:

8 large apples, peeled, cored, sliced- leave the skins on- the redder the skin, the pinker the applesauce. (If you aren't lucky enough to have access to freshly picked apples, use 2 Gala, 2 Rome, 2 Red Delicious and 2 Fugi)

1 1/2 cups water

1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light brown sugar
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon ( or to taste)
1/2 fresh lemon

Method:
Combine apples and water in a large pot. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium. Cook until mushy, stirring often to prevent apples from sticking to bottom of the pan. It should take 20 to 30 min.

We like our applesauce smooth so I put my cooked apples through a food mill. ( If you don't have a mill, KitchenAid makes a sieve/grinder attachment which you may already have.) Press the apples through a food mill.

While still hot, add 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon and the juice from 1/2 lemon. Sweeten to your own taste: I start with somewhat less than the 1/4 cup white sugar and 1/4 cup brown sugar called for- much depends on the sweetness of the apples.

Cool and then refrigerate. Makes 6-8 cups.

You may store in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. The rest I put in Ziploc freezer bags to store for the long-term. Homemade applesauce freezes great and when thawed, you’d never know it was frozen. I've kept some in the freezer for nearly a year. One little trick to save space: put some applesauce in freezer bags, lay them flat on a pan and freeze them. Once frozen, you can stack them up.

Mustard Ring

Well, it’s spring break month in South Florida. We are under siege- which is sweet for Florida’s economy but the driving is hell. A1A is barely a road this time of year- it’s solid people- on bikes, walking, running, going to the beach; you can’t make a turn at an intersection without practically getting out of your car to look both ways- bikes come out of nowhere, runners with headphones don’t even glance around- some even pushing babies along in strollers. Doesn’t matter if you have a green light. It’s all about defensive driving. OK. No more complaining; after all, this might just keep South Florida’s head above water until the long, hot summer. Then all bets are off.

Another sure sign Easter is nearly here: my darling granddaughter is coming down on HER break. She returns home on Easter Sunday so rather than making Easter dinner, we will be at the Ft. Lauderdale airport where we will practice patience.

As far back as I can remember my standard Easter dinner meant a Honey Baked ham. Trite, I know. But there are times when you’ve got to take the easy way out. Ham just plain goes with Easter, doesn't it? I even serve it on Christmas day because I want to spend time with my family rather than in the kitchen. Besides, Honey Baked hams are really good.

Christmas Eve with my parents used to be oyster stew and a filet of beef; then when my brother took over, it was turkey. So it was only natural I started serving ham on Christmas day- which everyone still requests with the lone exception of my daughter- who merely tolerates it. But whether Christmas or Easter, I do have an unusual side dish I serve that's a killer recipe- Grace’s Mustard Ring. Sounds really odd, doesn’t it? I thought so too… until the first time I tried it.

Years ago in Michigan I entered three recipes in a local cooking contest. I am embarrassed to confess my efforts did not even warrant an honorable mention. Oh well- life's little disappointments. Anyway…the grand prize winner of that particular contest was my friend Grace. Her winning entry was such a change of pace I couldn’t wait to try it. It was to be served with ham so I made it the following Christmas. Delicious! A pale yellow concoction that is so luscious in appearance nobody has a clue what they’re looking at. At first glance you’d guess it was dessert- a lemon chiffon something or other and then- surprise! It’s plated next to the ham on the dining room table. Describing it just meets with skepticism; you really need to taste it. It’s a sweet/sour mustard chiffon delight. I take it frequently to gatherings when I know ham is being served, but it needs a placard: “This is a mustard ring for the ham”. I’ve found it looks more like a savory if you garnish it with olives or parsley but at Christmas I can’t resist- I garnish it with holly.

So if you’re having ham this Easter, take leap of faith and give this a try- it’s such fun to watch everyone’s face as they taste this; I promise ham will never be the same without it. You can make it days ahead too. And if you detest ring molds, use any shape you wish.

Mustard Ring

Ingredients:

4 eggs (room temperature)

3/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons dry mustard (like Coleman's)

1 envelope gelatin

1 cup weak vinegar (2/3 cup vinegar, 1/3 cup water)

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup whipping cream

Method:

Mix the sugar, salt and dry mustard in the top of a double boiler. Make certain there are no large pieces of dry mustard left. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs and add the vinegar. Whisk this mixture into the dry ingredients in the top of the double boiler. Soak the gelatin in 1 tablespoon of cold water then melt it over hot water. Cook egg mixture slowly in double boiler, adding the gelatin when it becomes hot. Cook until creamy and thickened. Remove from heat, cool over ice cubes.

Beat the whipping cream and add to the cooled mustard mixture. Pour into mold of your choice and chill. When ready to serve, unmold on a platter and fill the center with black olives, parsley or small crab apples.

Stone Crabs: One Last Splurge

Happy 2009! Can you believe it?

Well, here goes: this year I will try to- be more frugal; stick to a diet; be more patient; listen; pour more love and encouragement on those precious to me; be a better friend. These are not resolutions but merely a little list for myself. I think I can manage to accomplish most of it. The hardest part for me is always dieting. Not so easy.

My daughter will be returning to New York City Monday.... I will miss her very much. She has a contemporary art gallery there (see "My Favorite Websites" below) and the art market has not been all that great lately. I am crossing my fingers that all the naysayers will be wrong in their predictions for 2009. This gallery is Tracy's dream and she works like mad to make it a success, which it has been for several years. I know, everyone is having problems with the economy and everyone is working hard to keep their dreams alive. But we mothers worry about all our kids, we can't help it and no matter how grown up they are, this will never change. I worry about my sons just as much. Little kids, little problems; big kids, big problems. Can't remember where I first heard that, but it sure is true.

So, in keeping with our diet promises (But our frugal promises? Not so much.) I decided to surprise Tracy on New Year's Day with her all-time favorite: stone crabs. Delicious and aren't the colors to die for? And best thing yet, no work. They are cooked and cracked and ready to go.

To accompany, we always use a recipe I found years ago in the Miami Herald for Joe's Mustard Sauce. The Joe I speak of is -need I say it- Joe's Stone Crab, the famous Miami restaurant where stone crabs are king. And the rest of their food is pretty regal too. Now I have no idea if this recipe is really Joe's or not. The paper claimed it was and we think it's pretty close to the real thing, so that's what we call it, with mea culpas to Joe's if it's not.

Joe's Mustard Sauce

Ingredients:

3 and 1/2 teaspoons dry English mustard (like Coleman's)
1 cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon A-1 sauce
1/8 cup light cream
1/8 teaspoon salt

Method:

In a small bowl beat the dry mustard and mayonnaise until blended. Add remaining ingredients and chill until ready to serve. Makes 1 cup.

We needed a salad as well, so I made some Broccoli Slaw. It's pretty, you can make it ahead, although it is a simple recipe to begin with, tasty and the perfect foil for the stone crabs. My friend Polly originally gave me the recipe so I named it after her. You don't need another thing- perhaps some white wine and for those who wanted dessert I pulled out what was left of my Apricot and Nut Cookies. Yum! What a great start for 2009.

Polly's Broccoli Slaw

Ingredients:

1 pound broccoli slaw (you can find it in your market)
1 package cole slaw
6 green onions, sliced
2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
1/2 cup slivered almonds, toasted
2 packages ramen chicken soup mix
1 1/2 cups salad oil
2 1/2 Tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon pepper
6 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Method:

Mix the first five ingredients and refrigerate. Make a dressing with oil, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper and 1 1/2 packages of the seasoning mix in the soup packet. Mix well. Just before serving, crunch up the noodles of both packages and add to the slaw. (I put them in a plastic bag and pound them with my rolling pin) Pour dressing over and serve.